On Safari
Its a trip to get there
1/8/13
We had been in Tanzania for less than 48 hours when we boarded a pair of off-road vehicles that would take us on a journey that our group will not soon forget. After breakfast, we all met in front of the hotel and prepared for our three day, two night safari to the Ngorongoro Crater National Conservation Area and Tarangire National Park. Spacial constraints required that our group split into two for the nearly five hour journey to get to our first destination. Though it was sad to lose more than half of our companions to another vehicle, the division allowed a great opportunity for Deb and Greg to get to know a couple of our fellow travelers a little better. Ken and Tami were our companions for the first leg of the trip. The promise of seeing several of the "big five" while on safari gave us plenty to talk about, and the five hour drive gave us ample opportunity to share a bit more about ourselves and our backgrounds as well.
It was a fantastic day to travel as the sun shone down brightly, and the cool breeze through the open windows of the vehicle provided a comfortable traveling environment. Driving through Moshi, our eyes were drawn to some of the shops and areas we had spent time at just the day before. As we continued forward, we started to get an appreciation for the large size of the city of Moshi. The area that covered in thirty to forty five minutes of walking on Monday, we now passed in a matter of minutes. It quickly became apparent that while the standard of living, when measured in economic terms, might not compare equally with that of our homeland, the general structure of the city and its layout was familiar.
It was a fantastic day to travel as the sun shone down brightly, and the cool breeze through the open windows of the vehicle provided a comfortable traveling environment. Driving through Moshi, our eyes were drawn to some of the shops and areas we had spent time at just the day before. As we continued forward, we started to get an appreciation for the large size of the city of Moshi. The area that covered in thirty to forty five minutes of walking on Monday, we now passed in a matter of minutes. It quickly became apparent that while the standard of living, when measured in economic terms, might not compare equally with that of our homeland, the general structure of the city and its layout was familiar.
The same could be said of Arusha. As we drove through that city, it became apparent that in many ways, the locals and the places where they shop, eat, work, and live bore a striking resemblance to places back home. That being said, there were also significant differences. The infrastructure for sewer, sanitation and electricity all appeared under developed and/or in a state of disrepair. Similar to our experiences in other impoverished areas of the world, there were several buildings that appeared halted in various stages of construction and still others that appeared fully constructed but lacking in the amenities that we come to expect back home.
One pleasant difference from the United States was the general good nature of the people we met along the way. Despite traffic delays, poorly signed intersections and tight driving conditions, drivers often seemed at ease with the process. Honking of the horn served the function of saying "hello" or just providing a reminder that the vehicle was present, where as in the United States it is often an invitation for others to observe a certain finger in the air or elicits an equally hostile response from the intended target.
Leaving both cities behind, we began our trek through the countryside and settled into observation and relaxation mode. The grass and vegetation were much more lush than anticipated. Areas that appeared to be designated for cultivation showed a red soil that seemed foreign to a Midwesterner, but no doubt would not surprise someone from the southwest. There was livestock in abundance and often those animals were tended by children no older than eight or nine. Quite often it was likely that they were even younger than that. We've included some photos below of the various markets and dwellings that we passed on our way.
After several hours of driving, interrupted with the occasional bathroom break and shopping opportunities, we finally arrived at the entry gate into the Ngorongoro Crater National Conservation Area. Here, there were baboons waiting in the parking area to greet us, and we were given strict instructions to keep our distance and not to feed the animals. The windows and doors to the vehicles also needed to be closed and latched. This is because the baboons have been known to make themselves comfortable in vehicles, and help themselves to their contents if given the opportunity to do so.
From the gate entrance, we proceeded up the outer edge of the crater rim until we reached the summit. It was there that we got our first glimpse of the spectacular crater floor that was home to so many of the beautiful and exotic animals we had come to see. The view from the rim was impressive and simultaneously surreal. The vast expanse below was home to thousands of animals, and we would be driving amongst them the following morning. The viewpoint also gave Greg an opportunity to put the zoom lens on our new camera to the test. Sure enough, a 42x zoom lens was strong enough to capture three elephants walking across the crater floor below at a distance that had to be several miles away. This was definitely going to be a wonderful experience.
When we arrived at the village, we were introduced to the tribal chief's son. He explained that he was the heir apparent to lead the village and that his role as a tour guide was a function of his fluency in English. We knew from our driver that guests were welcome at the village only on certain days of the week, and the visit had a hint of a staged experience. In the end, however, it would have been no different from any other sort of cultural experience where attendees observe elements of another group's culture in a format that provides the opportunity for learning and explanation. Our guide indicated that no questions were off limits, and we were encouraged to ask as many questions as we liked.
Our experience at the village began with observing singing and dancing by the village members. The village consisted of over sixty members, all related by blood or marriage, and essentially constituted a family compound. The men danced by jumping vertically in the air, and they reached heights that seemed to defy gravity with the ease that we might demonstrate while lifting a leg to go up a single step. As the men jumped and sang, the women sang and shrugged there shoulders in a form of dance that caused the beaded necklaces they wore to bounce rhythmically about.
At this point, we were clearly visitors and the feeling was much like being on the outside looking in. The chief's son asked and encouraged us to participate in the dancing, indicating that it would be a demonstration of goodwill and a chance to establish a certain connection with the experience. With only slight hesitation, Greg accepted the invitation and the guide's stick. Greg made his way towards the men's side of the performance with assurances from our guide that the guys would let Greg know exactly what to do. Upon finding his rhythm, and at the suggestion of those around him, Greg took a couple opportunities to jump with the fellas.
As you can plainly see, the heights to which Greg reached were not entirely equal to his Maasai teachers. A host of explanations, not all of them being flattering, could be provided for this failure to launch, but in the end the effort had the very impact that our host had said it would. The men seemed to get a chuckle out of their avocado albatross visitor, but they encouraged him nonetheless. The women demonstrated a solid understanding of the Western "fist bump" as they sought to congratulate and welcome Greg back down to solid ground upon his completion of the dance.
The remainder of the village visit involved a tour of the bouma (village), which consisted of a circular stick wall covered with vines and shrubs that surrounded 16 dwellings constructed from sticks and covered with dried cow manure mixed with ash to create a waterproof seal. The roofs of the dwellings were made of sticks with thatch and again covered with the manure/ash mixture. The result was a sturdy looking abode that had no decidedly foul scent, and it appeared to provide relative comfort and protection from the elements. Inside the abode were two sleeping areas and a main living space that would make most toll booths look inviting by size comparison. The lighting was dim, and the only access to natural light and fresh air took the form of small holes in the wall. Our guide explained that the small holes are covered or stuffed at night to prevent animals and snakes from coming into the home.
The reason for the 16 dwellings was that each one of the chief's 16 wives was to have her own place to live. It was explained to us that the chief moved from dwelling to dwelling on a nightly basis. Any children living in the dwelling that the chief was sleeping in on a given night were sent to a neighbor's house for the evening so that the chief and his wife could be alone together. A chief is required to demonstrate his ability to provide for each wife before she is allowed to leave her own village and join the village where the male lives.
We also saw the village's school houses (old and new), and the kindergarten class from the local tribe practiced their rote recitation of the alphabet and basic addition and subtraction. The center of the village contained a circular enclosure into which the village's livestock is herded each night by the children who tend to the cattle in the pasture during the day. Around the outside of the livestock enclosure were examples of fantastic beadwork and other crafts made by the villagers themselves. Before concluding our tour, we were encouraged to make our way around the craft circle to see if we might be interested in any of their wares. It was evident that any purchase we would make would benefit the village, and the pieces were unique and appeared well crafted. That being said, there was a certain degree of hazard in expressing interest in any one item. Any interest would quickly prompt the creator of the item to step forward and make efforts to get the item into your hand, and it also prompted others with similar objects to suggest that their work might be of interest as well.
Once we had completed our trip around the circle, we began the process of settling on a price for the items we had selected. In the grand scheme of things the prices, in comparison to artistry and the effort required to construct the items, were not totally out of line. It would not be until later in the trip that we would realize we could have bought similar items at nearly half price elsewhere on Safari, but in the end we settled on items that were of interest to us at a price that would both support the village and would not break our bank. As our visit came to a close, we circled the village one last time and snapped a few more photos to document the experience. Our hosts wished us a fond farewell, and we made our way back towards the main road and headed towards the Sopa Lodge.
The Sopa Lodge was a lap of luxury in comparison to the village we had just visited. Clearly it was a tourist destination. It was also clearly designed with the creature comforts of the well-to-do in mind. The Sopa Lodge had all the amenities you would expect at a resort in the United States. Though the rooms themselves were a bit dated, the view of the crater floor below was phenomenal and the grounds were beautifully manicured and maintained. After getting our bags to our room, we made our way back to the main lodge and joined our fellow travelers who got us up to speed and assisted in getting beers into our hands. There we sat as the sun began to set, and we talked about our experiences from throughout the day. We also talked in anticipation of the adventure that awaited us the next day.
A short time later, we ate dinner as a group and said our "good nights". We all retired to our rooms with a plan for getting up before 5:00 a.m. so that we could hopefully be on the road and at the park gates when they opened in the morning at 6:00 a.m.
One pleasant difference from the United States was the general good nature of the people we met along the way. Despite traffic delays, poorly signed intersections and tight driving conditions, drivers often seemed at ease with the process. Honking of the horn served the function of saying "hello" or just providing a reminder that the vehicle was present, where as in the United States it is often an invitation for others to observe a certain finger in the air or elicits an equally hostile response from the intended target.
Leaving both cities behind, we began our trek through the countryside and settled into observation and relaxation mode. The grass and vegetation were much more lush than anticipated. Areas that appeared to be designated for cultivation showed a red soil that seemed foreign to a Midwesterner, but no doubt would not surprise someone from the southwest. There was livestock in abundance and often those animals were tended by children no older than eight or nine. Quite often it was likely that they were even younger than that. We've included some photos below of the various markets and dwellings that we passed on our way.
After several hours of driving, interrupted with the occasional bathroom break and shopping opportunities, we finally arrived at the entry gate into the Ngorongoro Crater National Conservation Area. Here, there were baboons waiting in the parking area to greet us, and we were given strict instructions to keep our distance and not to feed the animals. The windows and doors to the vehicles also needed to be closed and latched. This is because the baboons have been known to make themselves comfortable in vehicles, and help themselves to their contents if given the opportunity to do so.
As we continued driving along the crater rim towards where we would be staying, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge, our group of four decided that we would take the opportunity to drive a bit past the lodge to visit a local Maasai village. So....while the other vehicle turned off the main road and went to the lodge to check in and relax, Tami, Ken, Greg and Deb proceeded to the village without much knowledge of what to expect. A friend of Deb's had done a "village visit" while in Tanzania a few years earlier. She declared it an experience not to be missed, and so we were anxious to have the chance to see a way of life seemingly so distinct from our own.
Our experience at the village began with observing singing and dancing by the village members. The village consisted of over sixty members, all related by blood or marriage, and essentially constituted a family compound. The men danced by jumping vertically in the air, and they reached heights that seemed to defy gravity with the ease that we might demonstrate while lifting a leg to go up a single step. As the men jumped and sang, the women sang and shrugged there shoulders in a form of dance that caused the beaded necklaces they wore to bounce rhythmically about.
At this point, we were clearly visitors and the feeling was much like being on the outside looking in. The chief's son asked and encouraged us to participate in the dancing, indicating that it would be a demonstration of goodwill and a chance to establish a certain connection with the experience. With only slight hesitation, Greg accepted the invitation and the guide's stick. Greg made his way towards the men's side of the performance with assurances from our guide that the guys would let Greg know exactly what to do. Upon finding his rhythm, and at the suggestion of those around him, Greg took a couple opportunities to jump with the fellas.
As you can plainly see, the heights to which Greg reached were not entirely equal to his Maasai teachers. A host of explanations, not all of them being flattering, could be provided for this failure to launch, but in the end the effort had the very impact that our host had said it would. The men seemed to get a chuckle out of their avocado albatross visitor, but they encouraged him nonetheless. The women demonstrated a solid understanding of the Western "fist bump" as they sought to congratulate and welcome Greg back down to solid ground upon his completion of the dance.
The remainder of the village visit involved a tour of the bouma (village), which consisted of a circular stick wall covered with vines and shrubs that surrounded 16 dwellings constructed from sticks and covered with dried cow manure mixed with ash to create a waterproof seal. The roofs of the dwellings were made of sticks with thatch and again covered with the manure/ash mixture. The result was a sturdy looking abode that had no decidedly foul scent, and it appeared to provide relative comfort and protection from the elements. Inside the abode were two sleeping areas and a main living space that would make most toll booths look inviting by size comparison. The lighting was dim, and the only access to natural light and fresh air took the form of small holes in the wall. Our guide explained that the small holes are covered or stuffed at night to prevent animals and snakes from coming into the home.
The reason for the 16 dwellings was that each one of the chief's 16 wives was to have her own place to live. It was explained to us that the chief moved from dwelling to dwelling on a nightly basis. Any children living in the dwelling that the chief was sleeping in on a given night were sent to a neighbor's house for the evening so that the chief and his wife could be alone together. A chief is required to demonstrate his ability to provide for each wife before she is allowed to leave her own village and join the village where the male lives.
We also saw the village's school houses (old and new), and the kindergarten class from the local tribe practiced their rote recitation of the alphabet and basic addition and subtraction. The center of the village contained a circular enclosure into which the village's livestock is herded each night by the children who tend to the cattle in the pasture during the day. Around the outside of the livestock enclosure were examples of fantastic beadwork and other crafts made by the villagers themselves. Before concluding our tour, we were encouraged to make our way around the craft circle to see if we might be interested in any of their wares. It was evident that any purchase we would make would benefit the village, and the pieces were unique and appeared well crafted. That being said, there was a certain degree of hazard in expressing interest in any one item. Any interest would quickly prompt the creator of the item to step forward and make efforts to get the item into your hand, and it also prompted others with similar objects to suggest that their work might be of interest as well.
Once we had completed our trip around the circle, we began the process of settling on a price for the items we had selected. In the grand scheme of things the prices, in comparison to artistry and the effort required to construct the items, were not totally out of line. It would not be until later in the trip that we would realize we could have bought similar items at nearly half price elsewhere on Safari, but in the end we settled on items that were of interest to us at a price that would both support the village and would not break our bank. As our visit came to a close, we circled the village one last time and snapped a few more photos to document the experience. Our hosts wished us a fond farewell, and we made our way back towards the main road and headed towards the Sopa Lodge.
The Sopa Lodge was a lap of luxury in comparison to the village we had just visited. Clearly it was a tourist destination. It was also clearly designed with the creature comforts of the well-to-do in mind. The Sopa Lodge had all the amenities you would expect at a resort in the United States. Though the rooms themselves were a bit dated, the view of the crater floor below was phenomenal and the grounds were beautifully manicured and maintained. After getting our bags to our room, we made our way back to the main lodge and joined our fellow travelers who got us up to speed and assisted in getting beers into our hands. There we sat as the sun began to set, and we talked about our experiences from throughout the day. We also talked in anticipation of the adventure that awaited us the next day.
A short time later, we ate dinner as a group and said our "good nights". We all retired to our rooms with a plan for getting up before 5:00 a.m. so that we could hopefully be on the road and at the park gates when they opened in the morning at 6:00 a.m.
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